You can buy seeds from many different outlets – on-line, garden centres, some Do it yourself stores and mail order. Often the mail order ones are small plug plants which are more often than not very good quality, although I have to say for me, there is just something about watching that first sprout push its way out of the compost which I find sadly, incredibly fulfilling.

Growing Tomatoes from Seed

If this is your first time at growing tomatoes from seeds it does not have to be a costly venture. Seedlings can be developed in any little pot or vessel which has decent drainage holes. Yoghurt pots are really good and usually readily obtainable. If you want to take this up as a sideline it is worth buying seed trays and a propagator, however, if you are just developing a couple of plants to have in a grow bag on your terrace, balcony or in your hanging basket. Plastic bags with an elastic band round the top of the tub can be just as good as a propagator.

It is always a decent thought to grow a few additional seeds than you are expecting to plant just in case one of those mishaps which befall us all, like knocking plants over, or having some small blighter consume them. If you do have spare plants, you can at all times hand them to friends or neighbours and spread the word.

Plant the seeds inside if achievable for quicker germination and store them in a well lit area, like your conservatory or windowsill so they do not get too leggy searching for the light.

The ideal temperature needs to be 18-21C (65-70F) and if you are able to use a propagator that will be a plus. This acts as a mini greenhouse for your plants. The bottom of a fizzy drinks bottle of the correct size can be cut and positioned over the pot can give the same effect. Once the seedling appears and has cast off its seed pod, the plants need to have air circulating or the seedling may rot. Therefore, the top wants to be taken off the propagator.

So to summarise:

* The seeds will grow between, eight to twelve days depending on the temperature. It is advisable to water young seedlings in the tray so that they are not knocked over with watering

* If you like trying something from the heritage range of tomatoes, you can link up with “The Heritage Seed Library” here in the UK or “The Seed Savers Exchange” in the US both of which have seed swap registers. If you wish to save seeds from the Heritage tomatoes for the subsequent year or to share you can:

* Carefully scoop out the seeds from your chosen tomato

* Put onto a plate taking care to divide them

* Let them to dry out naturally

* Put in a paper envelope with details of the tomato and any special growing instructions

* Keep in a cool place either in the fridge or the freezer – I put them in the freezer in freezer bags. The zip up ones are good.

Lesley Pirrie

Lesley Pirrie is an expert in growing tomatoes. Check out more information on how to plant tomatoes at http://www.howtoplanttomatoes.com

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The best way to get your seeds started is in a multi-cell seed tray containing a good quality potting compost. All you need to do is fill the cells with the potting compost and then dampen slightly with a watering can using a fine rose head. When that is done drop 2 or 3 seeds into each cell and then push the seed into the compost with a pencil or similar to a depth of around an 1/8″ to a 1/4″.

If you have bought your seeds from a supplier don’t forget to read the instructions on the packet for a source of additional information for the variety you have selected. Sometimes germination might require that the seed trays are placed in a dark cupboard until the plants start to show. Mostly though it is good enough to slip your seed trays into a polythene bag or put a plastic dome over them while they germinate.

As the tiny plants come through you will need to become the grim reaper and select the strongest plant from the ones in each cell. Choose the plant you think is the healthiest and then simply snip the other one (or two) off at the surface of the compost. Don’t pull them out as this is not good for the root ball of the remaining plant.

Once the plants have appeared they should be placed somewhere that has plenty of light, a window sill or a conservatory are good options. The plants will benefit most if they can get access to around 9 hours of sunshine a day. They will also require regular watering to keep them moist, note I said moist not soaked but also don’t let them dry out or you will be dead in the water before you start; excuse the pun.

To make the stems strong and flexible you can brush them lightly with your hand once or twice a day to flex them as they grow. This stops the stems becoming brittle. When they are big enough to handle they should be transplanted to a larger pot of around 3″ diameter and then left for another 4 weeks or so until they are ready to be moved to their final spot. At this point if you are using pots they will need to be around 12″ diameter to give the plant plenty of room and sufficient nutrients, a general purpose compost is good for the last planting stage.

Once they are in the 3″ pots you treat them pretty much as you would through the rest of their life with respect to watering and general care, but before you put them outside permanently it is a good idea to pop them out during the day and take them in at night for a few days to harden them off. So you would normally do this in the last week just before transplanting to the 12″ pots.